Sangre de Cristo Winter Expedition

Journal Entry February 24, 2002: My winter mountaineering experiences have been limited due to my dislike of losing extremities to the cold weather. Plus, I would rather be hiking canyons, ice climbing, skiing, or basically any excuse to be outside...any excuse but winter mountaineering.

Don't get me wrong, mountaineering is my favorite challenge in life. I just perfer it May through October though. And when my good friend and extreme climber, Steve Gladbach called, I did not hesitate on this trip. These peaks are on private land and nearly impossible to climb legally. (This is now open to climbers if you pay $500 per day.)

I have been on several winter climbs with Steve. That is precisely why I wanted to say no to him. I love Steve, but his sense of a short day might be 12 hours of non-stop, postholing fun. This is 12 hours when there might be only nine hours of daylight. So when he mentioned this could be quite an experience, I should have listented to my instincts. "Don't go, Mark." But, oh well. Last year, Steve, Marlyn Peet, and I climbed nine mountains covering 26 miles and 9,000 vertical feet in a 24 hour stealth, moonlit climb. We did this because of the private property issue. Not wanting to risk my career again, I raced off to Alamosa and then San Luis on a blistery Friday afternoon.

The seven of us split three rooms in a silent, semi-deserted motel, woke at 3:00 AM, and met the ranch foreman at 4:00. After paying the $25 for the climbing opportunity, he graciously drove us up the plowed road and dropped us at 11,000 feet.

By 5:00 AM, we had on snowshoes, and the "fun" was only beginning. Taking turns, we each led through three to four feet of powder. We were fresh but happy to have seven leaders. The six following didn't have it so bad. By 12,500 feet, the ridge was somewhat windswept. We traded postholing for ten hours of hard wind.

By 10:30, we summited Culebra. I had climbed this 14er in 1992, but it was easier to go over Culbra to get the goal of the next four 13ers than to go around Culebra. By noon we reached Red Mountain. At this point I was a bit tired. Well, more than a bit. I have been on 15 hour summer climbing days, but the cold, postholing, and constant wind left me wondering, "What the heck?" or something to the effect. Two in our party turned around at this point. Maryln was suffereing so Steve and I split up his gear. I carried the only tent. Gary Swing offered to carry extra pounds as well. I didn't know Gary well, but learned he was super strong. Two climbers bypassed Red Mountain and met us on the next saddle.

We huffed another mile and half plus 800 vertical feet over Vermejo Peak by 2:00 PM. Marlyn offered chocolate and gummy bears. So good!! By 3:00, we summited UN13,466. We dropped our packs at the last saddle sticking small boulders on them so the wind wouldn't play them like kites. The last 850 vertical feet to Purgatoire Peak literally took our breath away-wind and nothing left in the tank. It was 5:00 PM, taking a break at 13,676 feet; little did we know the fun was just beginning.

Donning our packs and snowshoes once again, we began the 4,000 foot vertical descent. By 6:00 PM the solid snow broke through to our waist. Conversations died as each of the five remaining climbers took brief-three to five minute turns at the lead position. My favorite place was last. The snow was somewhat packed by then.

At midnight we stamped out a flat platform and piled in my three person tent. With no sleeping bags, it wasn't long before the cold crept into our bones. Marlyn snored while the rest of us rested and hydrated.

We had enough fun by 6:00 AM, packed and began our final three hours to the road and truck.

Staying awake on the drive home proved challenging. My hips and knees had never been through so much postholing. I have a clearer picture of what Steve means by the term experience.