San Juan 14ers

Mt. Sneffels is our most climbed 14er with a dozen accents spaced over 40 years. This was Mark's first peak and Terry's second. Of course it holds a special place in our heart.

We have climbed Sneffels from Yankee Boy Basin (standard route), Blue Lakes Pass, and the Snake Couloir. Sneffels is attempted by veterans and novice climbers on a regular basis. It is surprising more people are not injured. Loose rock is the biggest hazard. In 1980, few folks were on the peak. Of course now there might be a hundred on any given day.

Mt. Sneffels is one of our favorites for many reasons. It has a symmetrical shape and is distinguishable from many vantage points The flowers in Yankee Boy and Blue Lakes rival any in North America. The blue in Blue Lakes looks fake. The blue seems heaven sent.

There is no dispersed camping on the Yankee Boy side. If you do not find an official camp site (there are very few), we suggest camping near Ironton Flats near Red Mountain Pass.

Journal Entry 1997: Our third ascent was via the Snake Couloir with Jim Morton. Since the final 3000 vertical feet are on snow, we left at 2:30 AM from Blaine Basin to assure better snow quality than later day sun would permit. On our fourth stream crosssing (3:00 AM), I tried a quick traverse over a log. My rope laden pack tettered and carried me deep into the gushing water. The four foot fall left me soaked neck to toe and scrambling for safety. 30 minutes of wringing clothes, a naked wait under the stars, and we where off again. 50 degree slopes led us to a 8:00 AM summit. This classic climb and glissade aided descent taught me a big lesson; bring extra socks.

Terry, Denali, and Summit high above Blue Lakes

Handies Peak is glorious for veterans and for those on their first climb. We have taken numerous people here on their first 14er. There are many routes, and we have taken several. The flowers in American Basin can take your breath away on a wet year. 30 14ers are visable from the summit. There is dispersed camping close to every trailhead.

Journal Entry 2007: (Terry's Notes) There's something magical about a mountain run at daybreak-especially when the path weaves through rugged terrain, vibrant wildflower meadows, and icy stream crossings that challenge your every step. Vanessa Moore and I started at the serene Grouse Gulch Trailhead and unfolded into an adventure I won't soon forget. For those seeking an adventure that combines physical endurance with the beauty of untouched landscapes, I highly recommend this trail. And if you have the chance to run with someone as insightful and spirited as Vanessa, consider it a blessing.

Beautiful day with Marianne and Summit

Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn: I guess since we named our dog Uncompahgre, it should not be surprising this is a favorite. Along with its neighbor, Wetterhorn, make this duo one of the most scenic on the continent. With dozens of nearby 13ers, this playground remains a special place in our heart. There is dispersed camping in many places.

Journal Entry August 20, 1983: We celebrated our engagement by climbing Uncompahgre, Terry's first peak. Terry: "I didn't know what to expect. I just followed Mark and his family, Chris, Charlie, Paulette, and friend Ken Frankhauser. I could not believe the beauty at every step. Physically it was doable, but mentally it was challenging." Mark: "I knew if we were to make it as a couple, Terry had to love not only me but mountains. She was already athletic and strong. I found out today she also was in love with the mountains."

We have come back to Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn many, many times over 40 years. We still find it magical and romantic. We started our ritual of sharing a kiss on the summit of every peak. We continue that to this day which includes a couple thousand peaks.

Wilson Peak, Mt. Wilson, El Diente: Rugged, challenging, beautiful...they can also be dangerous. Loose rock is the biggest hazard. If you traverse the ridge between Mt. Wilson and El Diente, you increase the risk factor.

Journal Entry 1990: Mt. Wilson is one of our first challenging peaks. Steve Gladbach joined us on this classic climb. Tedious at times, glorious throughout, Mt. Wilson's views are dramatic. The neighboring 14ers, incredible 13ers like Lizard Head and Gladstone, make this an all-time favorite. Camping is forbidden at the trailheads, but there are numerous dispersed sites along the routes.

Windom Peak, Mt. Eolus, Sunlight Peak, North Eolus: The Weminuche Wilderness is our favorite place in the universe. It's vast, breathtaking, and enormous. To access the 14ers, most take the Durango to Silverton train. That in itself is such a visual and unusual treat.

Journal Entry 2024: I had not been into the heart of Chicago Basin for three decades. Vanessa planned this trip with Kelly and invited me along. Yes, it's as beautiful as I remember it. Backpacking in wilderness followed by climbing rugged peaks is the epitome of my climbing life. This trip did not disappoint.

Journal Entry 1976: (My dad brought the mail, milk, bread, newspapers, ice cream, and medication from Montrose to Silverton six days a week. During the summer, his boys were needed to help unload and service the community.) Backpackers get off the Durango to Silverton train each day and head for lunch. I am in awe! Where have they been? What did they see? These are truly mountain men and women! I want to join them!

On top of Mt. Eolus