Elk Range
- mtschmalz5
- Feb 7
- 2 min read
Updated: Mar 4
Capitol Peak is one of the two most challenging 14ers in Colorado in our opinion. Many miles and a large elevation gain are only a portion of the reasons. Loose rock, route finding, and a bit of the pucker factor caused by exposure create an adventurous day to say the least.
Journal Entry 1994: We backpacked to Capitol Lake, one of the most scenic sites in the Elk Mountains. Jim Morton joined us on this beautiful bluebird day. The classic Knife Edge of Capitol is what worried us, but it turned out to be safe and sound rock. On the backpack out, more than one party stopped to ask if we made it. Then they turned to Terry. "Did you make it too?" Ha! Terry did not appreciate that very much. In those days, probably one in 15 climbers were female. By the way, Terry made it!
Journal Entry 2012: David Eisner had two 14ers left to complete the 14er list and asked if I would accompany him. We climbed Mt. Wilson first, so I knew he was capable and very strong. On this trip, we celebrated at the summit. Every 14er finisher knows this joy. I look back on this day with great appreciation. The world lost a wonderful man with his passing in 2024. Capitol is even more special because of this shared memory.
Maroon Bells are Colorado classics. They are photographed from every angle. Breathtaking, majestic, and a bit frightening when approaching, knowing the long day ahead. If you climb them individually, they are each long but reasonable. If you do the traverse, prepare for a long day. You need excellent weather as there is no alternative "out" when traversing.
Journal Entry 1996: Jim Morton joined us on this classic climb. 3/4 of the way up North Maroon, Terry said, "I'll just stop here." I asked why. "Well, I can do this, but I know it will get harder." Ha! She kept going and completed both peaks. I think we pieced the traverse together perfectly going from North Maroon to South. It never felt out of our wheelhouse. We were fortunate for the bluebird day as it took 12 hours.
2023: Alise Gladbach, Vanessa Moore, Namie Morton, and Ryan Dutch were on this adventure. I did not want to do this traverse without Ryan. It had been a couple decades since I first climbed it. I am so thankful Ryan led it this time going South Maroon to North. We did not find the easiest route. This is one of the challenges, and it is one you cannot make a mistake on or you will pay dearly. Today was bittersweet. My friend Steve (Alise's dad) had a deadly fall on a nearby peak. I looked over to that peak many, many times during the day. I often talk to Steve in my head as I climb. Today I had a lengthy conversation.
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